Weston Culinary Classes Spotlight Brazilian Cuisine

June 29, 2007

By Carol King
Reprinted from the Westport News

Chef Leticia Schwartz is devoted to combining her classic culinary training with her Brazilian heritage.

Born and raised in Rio de Janeiro, Schwartz is now a resident of Weston where she operates Chef Leticia, a culinary instruction and catering company.

As a teacher, Schwartz is determined to put a spotlight on the flavors of Brazil. "I want to share the spirit of Brazilian cooking," she said. "In many cases, Brazilian cuisine has been grouped with the rest of South American cooking. But Brazil has its own background as well as its own history. I want our cuisine to stand out and shine."

Brazil's native dishes are strongly influenced by the Portuguese, Native Indian and African cultures, Schwartz noted. "The mixture of these three cultures is a wonderful and exotic repertoire of cuisine," she said. "We offer a variety of sweet and savory dishes that make use of yuca, sugarcane and its derivatives, coconut milk, coconut water, peanuts, ginger, minas cheese, hearts of palm and condensed meats, salted cod, fresh fish and lots of meats."

Dishes specific to her country include moqueca (Brazilian fish stew), feijoada (a stew of beans and a variety of meats), bobo de camarao (a shrimp stew made with yuca and coconut milk), Vatapa (a fish stew made with peanuts, coconut milk, dried shrimp and ginger), Quindim (a sweet made from egg yolks, coconut and coconut milk), Brigadeiro (chocolate-fudge balls made from condensed milk and cocoa powder) and Pao de Queijo (a cheese bread made from yuca flour and Minas cheese). Schwartz has had a passion for food, and cooking, since she was a youngster. "As a child I spent hours with Dilma, our cook, and kept notes about how to make things dating back to when I was 8 years old," she said.

A visit to Switzerland when she was 15 exposed her to the diverse culinary treasures which the world offers. After finishing college in Rio, with a B.A. in economics, and working in a French bank in the private banking department, Schwartz decided to change her career and follow her passion.

She moved to New York in 1997, and enrolled and the French Culinary Institute where she graduated with degrees in both culinary and pastry arts. She continued her career working at legendary New York restaurants such as Le Cirque 2000, La Grenouille, La Caravelle and Payard Patisserie and Bistro.

For six years, she honed her skills as instructor by holding weekly cooking classes at the Continuing Education Programs of Westport and Greenwich, where during each session she created a three-course meal, preparing the courses as students watched and tasted. "I had been teaching French and Italian American cuisine," she said. "But last year I decided to undertake cooking lessons that were inspired by my own culture."

She designed and remodeled her spacious kitchen specifically to present cooking classes. She now teaches at her Weston residence. Up to eight students can sign on for each two-hour session and learn from this vivacious chef as she whips up an appetizer, main course and dessert. "The only thing students need to come with is their appetites," said Schwartz. Presently, classes are offered bi-monthly but she plans to offer sessions on a weekly basis.

During a recent class, Schwartz prepared Bolinho de Bacalhau (cod fritters) served with a Sauce Tartare as a starter, followed by Salmon Con Risotto de Caipirinha (Salmon with a Caipirinha Risotto). Touchino de Cue (Portuguese-style almond cake) concluded the meal. Students were able to interact with the chef as she prepared each course as well as enjoy ample-size portions of each offering. Recipes were distributed at the beginning of the session so that student could follow along during the session as well as take them home to prepare on their own.

Leo Mueller of Fairfield, a self-confessed kitchen novice, was among the students at the session. "I signed on for the class because, as a bachelor, I rely on the microwave and take-out food to eat," he told the Westport News. "I decided that I really need to learn to cook. My goal for myself is to eat better and to cook a meal for myself at least once a week."

Chef Leticia's classes, he said, were exactly what he was looking for. "I feel as though I got a lot of bang for the buck," he said. "Even though it was apparent that other people in the class had much more experience in the kitchen than me, I was very comfortable. I liked the intimate atmosphere of the class and Chef Leticia was right there to answer any questions that I had."

The concept of learning to cook Brazilian-style was a huge draw for Mueller. "It's a more exotic concept of food preparation," he said. "It certainly adds to my repertoire. It's way more interesting than making burgers and fries."

Laura Regnier, a mother of two grown sons, said "I had a great evening with our local Brazilian chef and I'm anxious to try the recipes out on my husband and friends."

Leslie Riback of Weston, who has two children in college and one in high school, has taken several classes with Schwartz. "I love the whole concept of learning to cook Brazilian style," she said. "Leticia takes foods and adds flair.

"I also enjoy her as a teacher," Riback added. "Her classes have a homey, intimate atmosphere, she has a warm way about her and she explains things in basic terms so that cooks and non-cooks can profit from her expertise. I'd really like to see her succeed."

Classes are priced $90 for each two-hour session. For more information, as well as recipes to download, visit www.chefleticia.com or e-mail leticia@chefleticia.com

Schwartz develops all of the recipes she teaches and is currently working on a cookbook. The following recipe, which is similar to a nugget-size cheese bread, is served to students when they arrive for her class.

Pao de Queijo Classico

(Cheese Puffs Brazilian Style)

Ingredients:

Procedure:

  1. In a dry bowl, mix together povilho doce, povilho azedo, salt and baking soda. Reserve.
  2. In a small bowl, mix together milk, egg yolks and egg. Reserve.
  3. In the bowl of a food processor, place parmesan and minas cheese. Pulse until well combined.
  4. Add wet ingredients and butter, run for 2 minutes or until it forms a wet paste. Transfer to a dry stainless still bowl.
  5. Carefully pour dry ingredients and mix with the tip of your fingers, forming into a batter. Dough should feel not too wet, not too dry. You should be able to easily form 2 inches balls from the batter. If it feels too dry, add a few drops of water or milk.
  6. Using an ice scream scooper, make 2-inch balls and place in tray.
  7. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake for 10- 12 minutes or until golden brown.